Paris, marked
A week in Paris, with every spot pinned on a map – the neighborhood bakeries, candlelit wine bars, and vintage shops I'd recommend to a friend.
I’m currently on my flight home from France, which feels like the right time to jot down all of my Paris recommendations before the details start to blur. About 90% of these are places I went on my trip this past week. The other 10% are spots I didn’t get to but came recommended by friends with great taste, and I’m including them because I trust them more than I trust all internet lists.
This is the guide I’d hand to anyone who doesn’t want their Paris trip to feel too touristy – who’d rather spend a morning in a tucked-away bakery than in line at a landmark, who’s happy to plan a day around one great dinner, and who’s open to vintage shopping in the Marais or settling in at a wine bar where the crowd is mostly Parisian.
Every neighborhood bakery, shop, garden brunch spot, and wine bar below is pinned to a private Paris Google Map – organized, labeled, and ready to use – available exclusively to paid subscribers at the bottom of this issue.
Where to stay
Charming, well-located, and the kind of places you want to come back to between days out. Ordered roughly from least to most expensive.
Hôtel Massé – A cozy, design-forward hotel in South Pigalle, with a small spa and bar downstairs. A great pick if you want something stylish without going all-in on price.
Hôtel Particulier Montmartre – The former home of the Hermès family, hidden behind a black metal gate in Montmartre. Just five suites, each designed by a different artist, plus the largest hotel garden in Paris.
Hôtel Balzac – A 5-star hotel just off the Champs-Élysées, reopened in 2024 after a full redesign. It shares an address with a 3-Michelin-star restaurant (accessible to guests through a private entrance) and has a Japanese-inspired spa.
Le Grand Mazarin – You’ve probably seen the Pinterest photos of the underground pool, with its curved ceiling covered in a colorful, hand-painted mural. The whole hotel is maximalist – velvet, paisley wallpaper, color everywhere – and perfectly located in the Marais.
Cafés & bakeries
For slow mornings, mid-afternoon resets, and happy detours.